In West Africa, Ghana, as I was preparing to head into the rainforest and trying to get my daily ration of water on a road of red earth, an old truck drove by. As the dust began to settle a little, I discerned two shadowy figures. Moments later, they turned out to be cyclists. Left and right small roadside fires. The roiling dust slowly swirled down, colouring the surroundings reddish-brown. In the Netherlands, cycling may be considered a healthy activity. Here with 35°C and all the dust and smog, I'm not so sure
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