Smoking Vucciria in Palermo – monochrome by Silva Wischeropp

This spectacular black-and-white image captures a smoky atmosphere in the heart of Palermo’s historic old town on the magical island of Sicily in southern Italy.
The conversion to classic black and white lends this urban market scene an elegant, mysterious and timeless quality.
The photograph was taken on 22 April 2022 using a NIKON D800 (lens: NIKKOR 50.0 mm f/1.4).

The Vucciria is Palermo’s oldest and most historic market, situated in the heart of the old town (Castellammare district). Formerly a meat market, it has now evolved into a place with two faces: by day a charming food market and by night the vibrant centre of Palermo’s nightlife.

From the “Boucherie” to the party mile
The name derives from the French word boucherie (butcher’s shop), as meat was originally the main item sold here.
In the local dialect, Vuccirìa also means “voices” or “noise”, which perfectly describes the chaotic and lively atmosphere of the alleyways.

Amidst the crumbling façades, you’ll find fresh fish on ice, sea urchins, fruit and typical Sicilian products such as capers and pistachios.

At night (Movida): As soon as the market stalls close, Piazza Caracciolo and the adjacent Piazza Garraffello transform into a huge open-air bar. Cheap drinks, impromptu music and an urban, almost anarchic atmosphere characterise the scene until late into the night.

The Vucciria is a paradise for street food lovers. The food is particularly authentic when eaten straight from the grills in the alleyways.
Street food classics: pane ca’ meusa (spleen sandwiches), panelle (chickpea fritters) or grilled stigghiola (lamb or veal offal).
The market became world-famous in 1974 thanks to the monumental 3x3-metre painting by Renato Guttuso, ‘
’.
It captures the ‘sanguine realism’ of market life and can now be admired at the Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri.