While touring Sicily, also did the "obligatory" hike up Mount Etna. In the morning on the route to it, there was a black rain of ash, as if the volcano was awakening growling. Fortunately (or unfortunately?) by the time we started hiking, it had calmed down. There are several routes to walk; depending on the volcano's activity and safety, the difficulty of the climb (family with children, or active). We were able to get up to 2200 metres, with no trace of life to be seen, but great views!